One of the most common questions that we get around here is simple, “Do I need to seal my furniture with a protective clear coat after painting it?”
When you demand an official answer, I deliver, people. That’s how I roll.
YES!! You need to seal furniture most of the time. I don’t seal everything, but I absolutely seal furniture when they are high traffic pieces. For example a kitchen table is an absolute no brainer, you will be sitting at it daily. Your kids will be poking it with a fork for heaven’s sake. You need to protect it from harm. Don’t worry. I will tell you what products to buy and how to apply it in a minute.
I don’t seal a project when it doesn’t get decorated, prodded, or poked. For example a lamp isn’t going to need a protective cover because it won’t be touched by anything else. A picture frame is going to be hung on the wall so it also doesn’t need much protection. BUT, the top of a piano is going to be decorated with accessories, so you will need to protect the beautiful paint job that you so lovingly just gave it by applying a clear coat.
Make sense?
What type of clear coat do I suggest?
#1 rule: Do not buy a spray clear-coat product.
I know, this may seem confusing coming from a spray paint addict like myself, but I promise it isn’t worth it. Every time I have sprayed on a clear coat it has resulted in STRIPES. No bueno. Trust me, don’t do it. Just follow my very carefully written instructions.
Buy Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic.
I love this water-based polycrylic product. I buy it in SATIN. It is plenty glossy for my taste. You can buy it at Wal-Mart for about $17.00 for a quart. You will be able to do a dozen projects with one can. I like how crystal clear the product dries. I have used other products that dry a yellow color, and this is not one of them. Don’t worry, it looks milky when you use it, but it dries perfectly clear. Plus since it is water based you can wash your brush out in the sink {a definite plus as opposed to washing it out with paint thinner}.
FOLLOW the directions on the can!
You MUST use an expensive, high-quality brush (or you will get brush strokes…I HATE brush strokes). I personally suggest a Purdy brush.
Make sure to do at least two (preferably three coats).
Apply one coat by brushing only in one direction to eliminate brush strokes.
Allow the coat to dry completely and then sand with 220 or 320 grit sand paper before applying the next coat.
Before you add a second and third coat, make sure you wipe off your dust from sanding.
You may wonder why I chose polycrylic instead of polyurethane. Polycrylic is water based NOT oil based. So, I prefer polycrylic. Plus polyurethane will yellow over time and polycrylic won’t.
I hope this will answer some of the many questions that have come up lately!
Good to know… Thanks for sharing!
When do you use a clear coat vs wax?
Can you use polycrylic on pieces that are going to be outside exposed to the weather? Or what would you recommend instead? Thanks for the tips!
Hi Laura’s Crafty Life. You would definitely need to use an outdoor product instead of polycrylic in your case.
Maybe Helmsman Spar oil Urethane. I used it on a project I just put outside. No results yet.
Thank you for posting this. I just bought a table and chairs for my kitchen off craigslist with plans to refinish it and I wasn't sure what I need to do to seal it. How timely your post was. =)
@BedHead Boutique: Wax and clear coats both protect your furniture. Wax will need to be reapplied in the long run {every 3-5 years as far as I understand}, and is preferred by some in this field. Most say they use wax because it won't yellow over time like a polyurethane will. BUT, polycrylic {the product I use} will not yellow either. So, I prefer the lasting protection of clear coat that won't need to be reapplied after a few years.
I also tend to like to refinish my furniture in the long run by painting it another color if I get bored. If I were to use wax, I would need to strip it off before I was able to do this. If I use a clear coat instead of wax, all I need to do is sand lightly before I change the color.
So, in short I prefer clear coat over wax.
This is exactly what I used to seal my newly painted kitchen cabinets, but guess what? Yellow streaks. I am so sad and haven't had the time to sand and re-do. I haven't figured out yet what would have caused the yellowing. Do you have any ideas? I sprayed on white Sherwin Williams wood paint then brushed on the Polycrylic finish. They were so beautiful until the Polycrylic dried. I wanted to jump up and down and scream and cry. (haha)Since I get to RE-DO, I would love any hints you can give.
If you used acrylic paint it should cure not just dry before applying a top coat. They say 3 to 4 weeks. Oil is a lot longer of course. It is thought that if the white paint is fully dried and cured it can react with the polyacrylic to produce yellow streaks. I’m going to use Benjamin Moore crystal clear polyacrylic, minwax doesn’t get very good reviews.
Were your cabinets stained to begin with before you painted? I’ve painted light colors over stained furniture and everything looked fine until I applied the polycrylic and got yellow blotches popping through just like you. To avoid this I will paint a coat of OIL based primer onto the wood first – that will seal in the stain and prevent it from bleeding through the paint. Then apply my water-based paint and and a coat of polycrylic.
It’s a possibility that if you didn’t prime/seal the cabinets before painting, grease & dirt may have seeped through. You maybe able to prime over existing work by using a non sanding primer to redo your work. Good luck!
Did you use a tack cloth? My husband and I both have used the tack cloth to remove sanding dust, and each time the polycrylic turned the white/light colored chalk paint yellow, als0 we think it is what caused air bubbles. We now vacuum and use lint free cloth’s with clear water then dry with lint free cloth. I’m new to redoing furniture and learning along the way. This site, ” all things thrifty” has awesome solutions but, if there is a glitch or something that is going to go wrong that no one has every had happen before it happens to me. lol. My projects are always outside the box and I’m the first to attempt them. I hope this helps. P.S rustoleum clear matte finish is awesome. I’ve had good luck with it not yellowing my white paint.
If you did not use a good oil base or shelac base primer over wood before painting the cabinets white. The yellowing may be bleed through from the wood underneith, not the polycrylic on top. Hope you have found your resolve.
Linda,
I am so sorry!! I don't have any idea why it would have left yellow streaks. I know that it can react weird with some types of wood. That has never happened to me, but I wouldn't use anything but lacquer on kitchen cabinets. I did a post about how to paint kitchen cabinets if you want to find it, that is the way I would do them if it were me. Again, so sorry. 🙁
hi,could you please share a link to post about how to paint kitchen cabinets.i will be doing it for the first time and i dont want to do it wrong..thanks much 🙂
Sure! No problem! Here it is: https://allthingsthrifty.com/2012/08/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets.html
Thank you for all your great info.!!!!! It has helped me a ton!!! I’m using the info for the clear coat on my boys dresser that I just painted and then I’m going to use the info for the cabinets soon!!!! Thanks a ton!! I sincerely appreciate you!
@Lauras Crafty Life
This is what I used when I did my front door! Hope this helps…
The Front Door
Good timing for me as well! I just refinished a dining table and stained it yesterday. I had some spots of the stain that looked greyish… It is a pine table. Should I try to redo or just try to seal and see if it "looks fine." Of course I don't want it to look just fine!
I just used some spray poly and wanted to cry. So glad for the tip. Thanks!
do you sand after the last coat?
This comment has been removed by the author.
Okay, I am lazy. Do I have to sand in between coats? What is the benefit of doing so?
Thanks for this post by the way. It is especially timely for me also because I am going to repaint an old weather beaten piano turquoise. (And I am already tired of sanding it 😉 ) So excited!
Minwax has a product that can be applied with a clean dry cloth that you do NOT have to sand between coats. My son and I have both used this product. To be more exact, my son had built an entertainment center and end tables for his in-laws for Christmas. I was living in NY and arrived mid-morning on Christmas Eve. I helped him apply this product to his “gifts” and they were ready for delivery the next morning after enough coats to make the pieces durable and lovely looking.
What is the product? So
NoNo: Nope you don't sand after the last coat.
Ditto what Meridy said: do we HAVE to sand?
hi brooke, would you use this poly after painting a rug as well? and doesnt sanding chip off the paint? *unfortunate newbie* :/
What do you do about air bubbles????
@SCSI: I wouldn't use anything on a rug that wasn't specifically for fabric. Good luck with your project!
@NotPatient: If you use a nice purdy brush, you shouldn't have air bubbles. If you roll it on you will and most of them should settle before it dries, but I don't use a roller specifically for this reason. Hope this helps!
You could of got bubbles if you shook the can instead of slowly
stirring the can?
I did use a purdy brush…googled around and this is the same feedback everyone online gives, but I still have bubbles even when I use it in very thin coats. They persist even when I paint it on over the same area (the bubbles lessen but do not disappear. Oh well.
Maybe the temperature was a little too warm and it was drying to fast for it to flow out.
If I used "chalk paint" on my dresser with some distressing for an antiq-ish look & don't want any shine, I love the flat look, so what do I seal with?
Thank you. This is really helpful. One question though, do I seal just the top of my drawer or do I seal all of the drawer's body? (front, sides, etc)?
Thank you for this article. Its really helpful. One question though, do I just seal the top of my drawer or do I seal the whole drawer's body (sides, fronts, etc)?
Thanks!
Your site is amazing! Thank you!
I have a wax & poly question:
I used ASCP pure white to paint six kitchen chairs. I started to wax but they are tacky & the kids leave smudges, scuffs etc all over them and it is hard to get off (I know! WHY did I paint chairs white with THREE children under 5??)
Anyway, now I’m wondering if I can seal with the polycrilic instead? Do I need to sand off the wax first?
THANK YOU!!
Also, if not, could I spray paint a satin latex right over them instead?
Cheers!
Liz
Liz,
I have never tried to polycrylic something that has been waxed before. I would guess that the polycrylic would not stick to the wax. So, the only advice I have to give you is to try it. Will you please report back and tell us what happened? I’m curious now. Good luck!
Do you have to sand in between coats? I used a 220 grit sand paper on my first coat of sealer and it sanded my paint in a couple of areas. I was able to touch them up because they were really small but wondered if I could just put 3 coats and wait for them to dry well between coats?
You definitely need to follow the instructions and let it dry between coats and sand between coats too. You want each coat to adhere to the last, and it will adhere better if you sand lightly.
I went to Lowes and they recommended Minwax Clear Wood Stain not tinted to seal my old painted dresser. I read the instructions and it tells me to sand the piece completely- which I don’t want to do- and tells me to wipe off the stain after 3 minutes. What’s the benefit of using your product instead of the one Lowes recommended?
I don’t listen to Lowes. Check out what they recommended to me: https://allthingsthrifty.com/2012/10/how-to-paint-floor-and-what-not-to-do.html It took me 5 hours to fix their mistake.
Best reply EVER!! 🙂
Will this also work if you have used enamel paint? I just did a kitchen table, but need to coat it with something to protect it. Also, how long would you let the paint “cure” before doing the clear coat?
I would use an enamel clear coat if you painted it with an enamel paint. Check out my post about painting kitchen cabinets and that may answer your question: https://allthingsthrifty.com/2012/08/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets.html
After consulting with professionals that paint kitchen cabinets for a living and the engineers at Benjamin Moore, this is how I finished my previously stained and polyurethane d kitchen cabinets. I might as well start from the beginning and answer your question as I go…
THOROUGHLY clean cabinets and all surfaces to be finished. I scrubbed with a scotch pad and TSP substitute until squeaky clean. Then I used a nontoxic deglosser and another scotch pad and deglossed (scrubbed) all surfaces again. I scrubbed again with TSP one last time to make sure there was no residue left on any surface. You probably could skip the first scrubbing and go right into the deglossing then a thorough scrub down after. Anyway I think you get the point here. Surfaces must be absolutely clean with no grease or residue left on them. Remember, this job is 90% prep and 10% painting. I used a HVLP sprayer to apply 3 coats Benjamin Moore Impervo water based enamel to the cabinets. I waited 1 day between coats and did not sand and here is why. Most paint takes around 2 weeks to cure. Prior to 2 weeks cure time, a coat of paint applied over another coat will form a molecular bond and adhere quite well. After 2 weeks, you should rough up the surface (sand) so that the second or subsequent coat will form a mechanical bond to the prior coat for proper adherence. When paint is applied, it has a period of “outgassing” which is what you smell during the curing process. This goes on for about 5-7 days after which the outgassing is minimal. The important point here is that if you put a polycrylic over paint while it is outgassing, you will get bubbles in the poly coat. So…the proper time to apply the poly coat is between 5 and 14 days (after the gas and before the paint cures) and you wont have to sand because you will get a molecular bond between the poly and the paint. I used Benwood Stays Clear low lustre acrylic polyurethane (3 coats). The cabinets look magnificent and after two years have nary a scratch, chip, peal or any signs of wear and they clean like the side of a refrigerator.
Reference above post…I forgot to mention the primer coat. After cleaning and deglossing, I sprayed a coat of Insl-X “Stix” on all surfaces. Stix is a urethane bonding primer that absolutely adheres to everything. It sprays or brushes on easily, is sandable after a couple hours and cleans up with soap and water.
Ms.Brooke LOVE all your advice & suggestions 🙂 I Just bought bedroom furniture for the lil ones & IT hasn’t even been a month & already paint chipping on the dresser ,”Help”!! Also it Looks like there’s no protective coating over it ,(small dresser,2 nightstands& 2headbords.I will use the the clear polycrylic & already bought purdy brush $$$$. And if u have any more advice or tips for this project “I have never done this before Mom ” Lol thank u very much hope to hear from u soon will stall my hubby while waiting on your response …
I would definitely polycrylic it!! Good luck. I would probably do 3 coats with sanding with 220 grit sand paper in between. It will really help! Good luck! 🙂
I ave the same question as a few others that hasn’t been answered. I’m very thankful for this post and will be finishing up my wooden, now painted, coffee table soon following your helpful tips. I was wondering, should I ‘protect’ the whole table or is just the top good enough? Also, will this stuff be ok to use over Krylon Fusion spray paint? Thanks again so much for your posts!
I just do the top, but if it is going to be in an busy area that will get knocked, then it wouldn’t be a bad idea to protect the whole thing. Yes, it will work over the Fusion spray paint.:)
Thanks! My table is cured and ready for the top coats, so it will be done this weekend. Thank you for replying!
Brooke! I love you I love you I love you! I found your site through my first DIY home decorating love, Mandi at VintageRevivals and I must say it’s looking like it might be time to introduce a third to my romance with self-home-decorating. I just got a couple pieces of family heirloom antique furniture that I want to pretty up with some bright colored paint a’la Mandi’s Max HVLP Sprayer technique but I was all in a tizzy over how to keep the finish safe, post-paint. My BF is a lovely man, but not so careful with the furniture and I saw many a ding and chip in my future. Your advice is so helpful and SO appreciated. You may have just saved not just my antique buffet, but my relationship 😉
Liz,
Thank you for making me laugh. Your comment made my night! Mandi and I are BFFs in real life, and she is my fave too! xoxo
(Similar to the last question.) I recently bought a beautiful buffet table from a salvage place. I’m distressing it white. I wish I had the money in invest in a paint sprayer at the times, but since I don’t I’m spray painting it. I plan to sand, wax the edges, paint, then wipe off (over the waxed areas for the distressed effect). I know you’re familiar with this technique, just explaining my plan for clarity! My question is… I was planning to use the polycrylic, however, I noticed it said to use it over water-based paint. Pretty sure spray paint is oil-based. Any recommendations on what to use?
You can use it over spray paint. It works great. Good luck on your project!
Brooke,
I just got done priming, and painting three coats of white paint on a mid-century dresser (sanding between each coat). I bought Minwax Finishing Paste (as it won’t turn white pieces yellow). Do you think this is a good option and have you ever used it? If so, do you have any tips? Or, do you think it’s best for me to return it and try the Polycrilic?
Thanks for your input.
Megan,
I haven’t ever used that product, so I cannot back it up. I have used Polycrylic for years and I have never seen a yellowing spot yet. Good luck!
Thanks, Brooke. Do you think I need to sand the final coat of paint before I apply the Polycrylic?
Nope. But after the first coat of polycrylic is dry, you need to sand it in between coats with 220 grit sand paper. I usually do three coats to be safe. The last coat you do not sand it after it dries. 🙂 xoxo
Perfect. Very helpful. Thank you!
I have just bought and used this exact same product and it turned the white paint yellow on a 100 year old dining room table that I just have painted a white satin color.
Michelle,
I am grateful for your feedback. I wonder if it’s reacting to the type of paint that you used. Could you share what brand and type of paint you used so that it could prevent this problem for others? Thanks in advance.
I know this is four years in the future from this article but I’m sure there will be others like myself using polycrylic for the first time and I wanted to share my story about yellowing. I’ve been working on a side table project and because of unforeseen events I was forced to paint it white instead of using a stain like I wanted too. With that said I did a ton of research into sealing and protecting the finish. Like many of us I came across polycrylic because it doesn’t turn yellow. However on the can it does say that it may turn yellow. I’ve read many articles and blog posts about polycrylic and many people have had great success without the yellowing.
Needless to say I bought a quart of Minwax polycrylic and put it on the table top and the legs (with kids and pets you never know what they can destroy). The legs turned out great, but the table top yellowed. I was mad but it was a small problem and a small table, nothing to lose my temper over. I sanded it down and repainted it. I then put another coat of poly on it and yet again it yellowed. My frustration was building but I wasn’t going to let an inanimate object get the better of me. I sanded and painted but before I put on another coat I turned to my computer. I researched again, and I found some people say it never yellows, but many others aren’t sure why it did because they’ve never had it happen. This isn’t helpful for those of us who have a yellow finish on our hard work.
I stopped and thought about it again. I asked myself, “why are the legs perfect the table top yellows?” I reflected on the two previous attempts on the table and realized my errors. The first time I dripped on a spot that was tacky already and tried to clean it up and instead I over brushed it. It was hot that day and the thin coat began drying faster than normal. To tell if you’re over brushing it for those of you that don’t, the brush stops gliding along the surface.
My second attempt I realized was too thick and it became a patchy yellow in the heavier spots. The way I determine if I had too much, if I couldn’t see the brush strokes it was too thick. Don’t worry on the third coat the brush strokes disappear with all the sanding and settling of the polycrylic.
I just finished my second coat on the third attempt and it looks great. I’ve found the first coat has the least amount of forgiveness when it comes to being applied. In conclusion, I have found if you put it on too thick or over brush it, the yellow will show it’s unwanted face.
I hope this helps someone else that’s having the same issues I had.
You are AWESOME!!! I just painted a buffet table antique white and I am terrified to use polycrylic even though I may have no choice as this will be high traffic furniture. I just purchased Minwax Polycrylic matte finish because I am hoping to still have the appearance of chalked/wax furniture. I will be extremely mindful about how much polycrylic i use…I am very heavy handed so i am happy to finally see someones feedback, fingers crossed that this does not turn out yellow!
Thanks!
I hope not too. I have also grown to really love varathane brand soft poly in matte finish. If you are extra stressed about yellowing, use a little bit of each in an inconspicuous place and let it dry completely over night. See how it looks, you can usually tell how it is going to do.
I have used minwax polycrylic with success in the past. I used it on my kitchen cupboards when I painted them white five years ago. However, I just painted an old entertainment unit black (semi-gloss paint) and when I used the poycrylic on it, I ended up with brush marks. I have always used the minwax brush that is specifically for this product. Have you used this product over dark paint? What type of Purdy brush do you use? I have just painted a coffee table a dark brown color and don’t want brush marks again! Can you only use it over flat or satin paint?
Penny, yes I have used it over dark flat or satin paint. A flat finish especially NEEDS something to seal it. Otherwise you will hate it because dust will absorb into the furniture instead of wipe off. Just make sure that you are applying the polycrylic thick enough that it doesn’t dry during application. It should have time to settle a bit while it dries. {But be careful of the polycrylic dripping off the edges}. I apply a pretty thick layer when I apply it. And, of course use your good brush. Then wait for it to dry, sand it with 220 grit sand paper lightly and repeat. Basically, I follow the instructions on the side of the can! Good luck!
Brooke – i just finished repaint 6 black dinning chairs with glossy spay paint bottle. The original was very very very shiny but after i painted I lost the “very shiny”. I did some research and found your website regarding to the top coat to seal furniture. I know it needs to seal the chairs but if i apply the water base polycrylic satin, will i get the shiny back? What is your recommendation?
Like I said in the post, it is pretty glossy but that’s according to me. Ha! If you want super glossy, you might want to try a different finish. Just make sure it is the exact brand as the one I talked about. Hope this helps! xoxo
Brooke – where do I buy the purdy brush?
I get mine at Home Depot and although they are a little pricey, it’ll make all the difference! I promise!! Good luck!
xoxo
Thanks, Brooke!
Hi Brooke!
I just found this post via pinterest and was in the middle of painting a desk. I went to Home Depot and bought the Minwax Polycrylic but I didn’t pay attention to the finish type, I ended up with Clear Gloss. Is that like high gloss paint?? If so I am thinking I may need to exchange it. I don’t care for super shiny furniture.
Thanks so much!!!
Yes, Amy it will be super shiny. I would return it and get satin. Good luck! Sorry you got all the way home with gloss, been there, done that! xoxo, Brooke
Painting a dresser. What if I forgot to sand between coats (I only applied two coats) but was going to do a 3rd on the top. If I just sand between the 2nd and 3rd layer on the top that should be okay right? I read on another blog that because its not a eurthene but a crylic it should be okay.
Yes, it will be ok. Just sand a little with 220 in between the 2nd and 3rd. 🙂
I tried to read through all comments – but do you use this product over top of spray paint? I just got my old dresser looking beautiful then used spray sealer like the told me to at lowes 🙁 and now I have to start all over.
OH NO! Those darn Lowes associates can sometimes mess things up. Yes, this product works great over the top of spray paint. I would try to brush on a little bit right over the top of your piece before you start completely over and see if it covers up the spray/sealer mess. It may cover it up. It’s worth a try. Just make sure you are using a nice brush and satin finish. 🙂 Good luck.
I am painting my kitchen cabinets and your blog has been such a help! off to buy this at walmart!! i’ll let you know how it turns out!
I am painting my kitchen cabinets and your blog has been such a help! off to buy this at walmart!! i’ll let you know how it turns out!
Brooke- Thanks for this wonderful post. I just came across your site and i really need ur suggestions.
I painted my Ivory colored dinning chairs with Behr premium plus semi-gloss interior Enamel paint(white), i primed first with Kilz latex water-based primer.
The paint came out very well but i still need additional protection to avoid scratches, PLEASE WHAT TYPE OF SEALER DO YOU RECOMMEND; oil or water-based and the BRAND cos i don’t want to make a mistake of using something that will discolor the white paint.
Thanks again
Hi–I just painted a dresser with Behr interior Enamel paint (white). I used polyurethane to protect it and it yellowed. (I wish I’d found your site first.) I just repainted it with the Behr, and will use the polycrylic you recommend, but I have two questions. How long should I wait before painting the painted piece with the polycrylic? Does it need to “cure” first? Also, this dresser is going to become a bathroom vanity. How long does the polycrylic need to dry before the piece is good to go, so to speak? Thanks! Your site is very valuable! I bought the polycrylic and the Purdy brush, as well as the fine sandpaper, but I am hesitant because the instructions do not indicate how soon I can apply it after painting with the latex paint.
Gloria,
I would just wait until it is dry to the touch. Basically wait the same amount of time that you would wait to paint another coat of paint. Hope this helps! I’m sorry about the Polyurethane. Been there done that. 🙁
I painted my kitchen table black sime gloss. I sanded it and applied Polycrylic and it left bad strikes in it. what can i do
The black semi gloss is where the stripes are coming from. I would paint over it with black satin to reduce the stripes and then polycrylic over the top of that. I wish I had an easier response, but that’s what I would do.
Help!!! I know this is an old post but just used chalk paint to paint my daughters chair. Since it’s a heavy use item I decided to use a polycrylic. I applied it with a foam brush after watching some tutorials. Terrible terrible brush strokes and unevenness and blotchy . I am a beginner but hate the way they look. Only have done 2 coats. How can I make sure I get a smooth finish? Should I switch to a brush? Any tips on getting in between the slats in the chair??
I would actually not use polycrylic on it. I know that may be hard to hear since you are already past that point. I would use Rust-Oleum’s Clear Matte Finish. They have both a spray and a brush on product. I love it for chalk paint. It works GREAT!
Do I sand before my first coat of sealer? I think the answer is yes but I just don’t want to scratch up the paint when it looks so perfect. I know 220 isn’t super gritty but still…will the paint still look as good once the sealer is on? Thanks!
No I actually don’t sand before the first coat of sealer.
Hi! I spray painted a table about an hour ago. How long do you have to wait before applying the polycrylic? Thanks!
That should be plenty of time!
hello there I have a question…I just redid my kitchen table and chairs…I cant and dont want to use a poly anything on them due to the fact that my daughter is disabled and has severe asthma and other breathing issues…is there anything else that I can use to seal the table that isnt harsh smelling or needs major time in drying due to we live in a apt. Any suggestions you have will be greatfully accepted. thank you so much.
Polycyrlic is water based and it doesn’t have a harsh smell. It isn’t the same as polyurethane that is oil based and smells really strong. I would definitely seal it though or you will not be happy with the table in less than 6 months.
Help! I used the minwax water based polycrylic that says “crystal clear finish” over white annie sloan chalk paint and it is yellow. Why?? I’m so sad and at a loss about what to do.
I’m guessing it is reacting to the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I am not an expert with this brand of paint, so I would contact them and see if they have any advice. 🙁
Hi Brooke-
Weird question- I am painting a dresser and a desk. Last night I put the last coats of white semi-gloss latex paint on, the dresser looks perfect but I rushed through the desk and this morning could see marks where I mistakenly re-rolled over a part that was almost done drying. It’s hard to describe– it’s not brush marks– it’s where you can see that the roller touched drying paint and it doesn’t have the pretty shine. My question is, will the polycrylic hide this? or should I put ANOTHER “final” coat of paint on the right way with no roller marks.
My other question– I am nervous to use brush on polycrylic as I don’t trust myself not to get brush marks– will the rub-on/cloth-on kind work as well? How many coats? Any more info on that?
I would definitely re-coat. And yes you can use the rub on kind. I would follow the instructions on the bottle, but probably 3 coats.
Quick question re: sanding. I am finishing a buffet that I sanded, painted black (3 coats) sanded again and then sprayed (with a spray gun) a top coat of polyacrylic. The poly looks spotty. Weird. Also, when I sand the poly coat, it’s very dusty color, even after wiping with a tack cloth. Will a second coat of poly make it look dark black again?
Yes re-coating with poly will bring back the black. As for the polyacrylic with a spray gun, I have never applied it that way. So, I’m afraid I’m no help with that. But, in general you need 2-3 coats of poly before it looks completely covered. Good luck!
Varathan has a water based Polyurethane that does NOT need to be sanded between coats (Unless you wait more than 24 hours between coats). It’s going to save me 6+ hours since I won’t have to sand!
I am thinking of buying this new desk that is around $1500 that is stained vs painted. Does this technique work on stained furniture, or is this technique just for painted furniture?
I had noticed that the demo desk at the store had scratches in it. Granted demos take a beating, but I would just be sick if I scratched the desk. I have been looking around for sealing stained furniture, but can’t seem to find much about it.
Thank you,
Kristen
Yes! It would be a great idea to seal it if the demo is already chipping. I would do it in a heartbeat!
Hi! Stumbled on your blog and loving it. I refinished a wooden broyhill saga dresser by sanding and staining. Now, im debating on even using poly. It looks FABULOUS the way it is. But since it is a dresser, it is gonna get a lot of “traffic.” Would you still seal it with poly if you were me?
I would seal the top if it were me. Great job taking on this project!!
Can you use the polycryylic over an oil based paint?
Yes you sure can! Spray paint is oil based and I polycrylic over it all the time.
Thanks for all the information. I found it on pinterest pinned as foodsafe sealer and I went through all the comments but I didnt find any info about it being food safe,through my searches I read that most sealer will be food safe after curing,can you please clarify this? If its food safe what is the curing time.thanks
Curing times will vary based on the products you use, so I would read the instructions on the can. It should say the curing time. I would guess 48-72 hours.
HI! I have spray painted a little before, but it had been a while, so before I took on a refinishing project I consulted this posting for the sealing stages because I never get a truly smooth “satin” finish when painting even though the finish I choose is satin 🙂 I’m on my third coat of polycrylic (exact same one you use, and I agree about the yellowing issue with polyurethane!! I’ve worked with that one in the past 🙂 My question is about the sanding between coats of sealant. I’m using 220 grit and I’ve tried after my first coat of paint and even on the third coat could still see a little of the sanding marks, and then again on my second and third coats of polycrylic I can still see a few. I’m wondering how to avoid this. It seems to me that now if I don’t sand the third coat and do a fourth it might hide them, but everything I’m seeing, including the directions on the can, say to sand all the way up until right before the last coat. What am I doing wrong? I’ve tried using my palm sander with the 220, tried the 220 by hand, and I’m wondering if maybe I should just be spot-sanding out the drips/bumps instead of an all-over sand in between coats…?! Help me understand please 🙂 *Awesome & inspiring tutorials by the way!!
I just bought a kitchen table that is stained and has a rough rustic top. I also just noticed that one of my kids left a mark from a paint pen on the table. I tried to scratch it off with my finger nail and off came some of the top coat/varnish so now I can see the unstained wood. So two questions: any advice on how to remove the paint pen marks? What is the best way to seal / protect the top as it will need to withstand a lot.
Thanks!
I’m having trouble getting an even coat of the poly on the top of my table. I am using a good purdy brush. When I’m putting the product on it looks like I’m getting a good coat on. But, when it dries, it is very obvious that it is not. Any hints?
I do at least 3 coats with a light sand in between. How many have you done? Maybe you haven’t done enough coats. Try that and let me know how it’s going.
Brooke, Thank you so much for being so helpful! I’m about to do my first project ever, so forgive the simple question. After sanding between coats (Polycrylic), what is the best way to dust off the sand? I don’t want to leave lint or anything. Thanks again. 🙂
Allison,
GREAT QUESTION! I use a lint free cloth to wipe off the dust. Don’t rush to the store though, an old t-shirt cut up into pieces works GREAT! Good luck on your first project!
I’ve been searching everywhere for a heavy duty durable top coat that I saw on a blog in the past few months. It was a product made for heavy wear like table tops or chair seats. Do you know of this product or can you steer me in the right direction. It wasn’t MInwax. It was a product sold in one of those speciality paint lines like AS, I believe .
Thanks for all of your help.
Hi, I love your site! Thanks for all the great tips. BUT I think I need some help…I got some OOPS paint at Home Depot. A Grey Interior Semi Gloss Enamel. I used it to paints my Headboard and 2 night stands. Can I still use MINWAX Water Based Polycrylic Protective Finish Clear Satin to seal it. and if so, How long do I wait after? I just finished today!
Yes, you can. I would wait 24 hours before you seal it. Good luck!
I used Polycrylic to seal a bathroom vanity in a kids’ bathroom this past year. It was an antique “dry sink” (dresser) that I turned into a sink by cutting a hole in the top and installing a bowl sink. I painted it gray and sealed it with 3-4 coats of Polycrylic. So far, so good, and it gets daily use. Good product. Thanks for the post; spraypainting a shelf and I’m going to use Polycrylic on it too.
Thank you for this! I’ve gone to two different stores today Home Depot and sherwin Williams and neither of them were able to help me! They looked at me like I was crazy for asking for a sealant for my dresser! This was a great help!
Will this work over a gloss spray paint?
Yep it sure will!!
your site has become my go-to for painting questions lately!!!!!! so helpful and easy to understand. 🙂
Hi Brooke,
Love your site! I just painted a bedside table for my daughter’s room using a glossy spray paint. The woman at Home Depot gawked disapprovingly at me when I suggested I needed a polyacrylic finish on top to protect it. She said since I was using a glossy paint I didn’t need it. I trust your expertise more than her’s so just to verify – you still top coat even when you use glossy spray paint.
Thanks!!
Yes I sure do!!
Hi Brooke, wonderful site. I was wondering if polyacrylic would work for me. I am painting a kitchen table with chalk paint. It has a matter finish that I like and want to keep. Should I try to use the same polyacrylic? If not, what would you recommend?
Mcairlyn, I would definitely seal it. Chalk paint is usually sealed with wax, but I would definitely use polycrylic over wax. It lasts longer and protects the table much longer.
So I just got done painting a kitchen table 3 days ago.
It feels perfectly dry, but I know it will take awhile to be fully cured.
Question is can I put on my Top Coat now, or is it best to wait until it’s fully cured?
Thanks for the help!
I would put it on now. Then it will cure and adhere together.
I would apply the top coat immediately so that they can cure together. That’s my advice, but you can do it either way.
I just finished redoing some end tables. I sanded, primed, painted and use polyacrylic sealer. I sanded between coats of everything except the polycrylic (3 coats). Is this going t be a problem. I just found your site now when I was looking to see how long it would take to cure. Now I am nervous:(
It should be fine. I always sand because it says to in the instructions, but I bet yours will be ok.
Hi, I just finished painting an old dresser an espresso colored semi gloss. I’m looking at it now and am not happy with the sheen. Can I use this top coat in a satin finish? Will it dull down this semi gloss sheen?
Yes it should. Try it on a drawer first to make sure you get the finish that you want. 🙂
I just purchased some wood furniture and although it is high quality I worry about getting water rings. Would you recommend applying extra coats of water poly in case?
I think the only way to 100% guarantee no water rings is to use coasters and place mats, but the polycrylic should help for sure!
How long do you let it dry between coats?
That depends on the weather. If it’s hot and dry outside it dries within a few hours, but if you are doing it in the winter, I would wait 24 hours.
I am refinishing a nok hockey table for my grandson. I picked it up at a thrift store and the hockey lines on the surface were not neat and clean. This table looks to be homemade and the table surface is melamine. I used Krylon spray paint for plastic and it seems to be fine. I am afraid that it will not be durable with the small hockey puck being slid across the table. This is a very small 24 X 36″ table and is a toy. I was wondering what kind of spray finish I could use to protect the lines. Of course I would want something that does not yellow and is a clear smooth finish.
Thank You…any help is appreciated!
I wouldn’t use a spray. Go to this post: https://allthingsthrifty.com/2012/09/how-to-seal-your-furniture-and-when-it.html
It will tell you the product I recommend for you to use!
Thank you so much. Do you know if I can use that over Krylon paint for plastic?
I just came back from our Ace Hardware store and they sell the Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic in a spray….I know you said to stay away from sprays, but what about this??
I don’t recommend it. It’s hard to get it on perfectly even without stripes. But, friends of mine use it all the time. I’m just picky I think.
Will the Polycrylic adhere to melamine? Please let me know about this.
Thank You!!
As long as you sand it with 220 first to rough it up, it will adhere.
Could you put this on with a spray gun instead of brushing it on?
I never have, but I suppose you could try it?
I used the Minwax Polycrylic on my painted kitchen table. I put on 4 coats and let it dry for several days between coats. Now it is all peeling off. I am going to have to re-do the entire top. Do you have any idea why this might have happened? TIA
Give me more information. Did you paint it before you sealed it? Or was it stained? Did you sand before your first coat?
I painted it with chalk paint and I did not sand it before I applied the Poly. Do you think that is what caused the peeling? I sanded in between each coat with a very fine sanding block.
Yes, unfortunately. I think it needed something to adhere to. When I use chalk paint, I use a different product. I use Rustoleum Chalked Paint Matte Clear Coat from Home Depot. It works great.
I want to seal oil based paint pens used on an already painted wood stool from the store. I did try polyurethane spray and it melted the paint pen and left the white stool yellow with bubbles also. Do you know if this polycrylic will work with the oil based pen? Thanks.
I haven’t tried it, but it works with oil based spray paint so in theory it should totally work.
Is this food safe (for use on a kitchen table)?
This article was EXTREMELY helpful to me! I have always wondered when sealing a project would be necessary, and your comment about not using a spray-seal was a LIFE SAVER! Thanks for the great article.
Would it be safe to apply the polycrylic indoors? I live in a studio apartment, so it would be in my main living area.
Yes, I have applied is several times indoors.
Thanks, will definitely give it a try!
I recently came into possession of an old pine table. There are a lot of imperfections, scuffs, stains in the table top that I’m fine to leave in place, however, it seems that the original clear coat is wearing off a bit…would I be able to use the polycrylic directly on top of the old finish just to even out the finish a little? Would there be any problems with it adhering to the old finish?
It should adhere just fine, I would just scuff it up with 220 grit sand paper, wipe it off with a lint free cloth, and have at it! 🙂
Brooke, do you use a reg piece of 220 grit sand paper by hand or on a rotary hand machine? Also, I stained a wooden table with about 3 coats of stain. Should I sanded that before applying polycylric or just apply the polycylric and then begin sanding in between? Thank you!
I use a piece of 220 in my hand. 🙂
Is your table smooth? Does it feel smooth when you run your hand over it? If it isn’t, I would do a very light sand before I started with the polycrylic.
I painted my kitchen table black (flat paint) and applied Polycrylic (3 coats, sanding with 220 in-between coats) allowed each coat to dry about 8 hours (overnight) between coats. The table was not used for about 4 days after the last coat was applied. When we used the table the water glass sweat from ice made the finish turn white and the casserole dish with thick pot holders under it made the finish also turn white. It stayed white for about an hour then turn clear again. Every time I wipe the table with a wet rag it turns white and stays white for about an hour. WHY????
WOAH! That’s cray cray. I’ve heard that black paint and polycrylic are not friends. I would be so sad too. I would contact Minwax directly and ask them why this is happening. They might be able to help you. Darn it!
Hello!
I applied an oil based primer (Zinsser) to a wooden bureau, then applied two coats of Benjamin Moore paint and let it sit for three weeks. Last night I applied the Minwax Polycryclic, let it dry for two hours then went back to lightly sand with 220 grit paper. When I sanded it took some of the paint off! So now I have to start over. Any idea what I did wrong?
How did you apply the primer and paint and what color is the paint you used? Tell me more details and hopefully I can help. 🙂
Hi,
Your article of sealing…when and when not caught my eye for I was looking if would be necessary to urethane seal a ceiling I stained (white stain on pine car siding). The paint store of coarse says yes but I feel a ceiling that gets no exposure or contact probably would not. Reading your tips it would seem you’d confer but if you feel it would be good to do please let me know. Thanks!
I painted my dining room chairs with a white gloss paint a while ago, but they get so dirty! Would the polycrylic help to keep the chairs clean or make it easier to wipe them off? They always look dirty and I’m getting desperate for a solution.
Yes this would definitely help!
I don’t know if you’re still responding to questions, but here goes: Would polycrylic work over a brand new kitchen table that I bought at big box retailer which is lovely but shows every move you make on the table. I really don’t want to use glass or buy a table cover.
Yes it should. But I would be weary if the table is black. Black and polycrylic are not friends for some reason. What color is your table?
I used this on my white dresser and it turned it yellow, thanks a lot for the waste of money, and now I have to redo all my work. I couldn’t tell it was turning yellow, until it was drying so I had coated the whole thing. You should know what your doing before you start blogging about it
Thank you for letting me know. What kind of paint did you use? The more information that we have on this thread, the better since it will prevent other people from having the same problems. I have never had a problem with it. But there are way too many kinds of paint in the world to claim that everything will be fine since I have not used every single brand of paint.
Hi, Not sure if you are still responding but great article. I just finished a built in bookcase that I painted with semi gloss paint from sherwin williams. I didn’t realize that latex is bad to paint furniture with because it is always a little sticky and could stick to the books. I went to a lot of effort and bought a spray gun so the finish looks awesome. I’m wondering if I paint polyacrylic on top if I’ll get brush strokes. That would be so sad after spending so much time spraying the paint. Anyway just curious what your thoughts are. Does the sanding take away the brush strokes. Also the thought of putting 3 coats of poly on this bookshelf if giving me anxiety, it will take FOREVER! Thanks for the info!
I have a few questions for you before I answer. Semi-gloss paint latex paint already has enough protection without sealing it. Are you wanting to seal it because it feels sticky? Because painting polycrylic over semi gloss isn’t actually necessary for protecting the finish.
I don’t know if it would help the sticky situation. Brush strokes are very minimal with polycrylic as long as you use a really nice quality brush {like a Purdy…etc}.
If you want to try it, test it on a spot that won’t show like on the underneath side of one of the shelves and let it dry overnight to see how it does. What color is your paint? I know that polycrylic and black paint do not like each other.
I hope this helps!
I’ve used a fine oil based marker on wood and now I am looking for a sealer to put over it. Minwax Polyurethane and clear acrylc sealer both made the marker lines run. Would the polyacrylic sealer be a solution to my problem? Thanks much.
I’m not sure. The polycrylic is water based, so I’m guessing it would definitely do better than the polyurethane.
thank you for all your answers on here! it’s been so helpful. quick question – i think i have purchased the right polycrylic but i want to make sure before i use it. mine says CLEAR SATIN as the finish but says crystal clear finish up in the description with ultra fast-drying. i’m thinking it is just a new design on the label. am i good to go here?
Yep! Sounds the same. 🙂
Help!!! My husband built new cabinets and a window seat for our sons bedroom. I started out by priming all the furniture and then I painted three coats of Behr premium plus ultra stain blocking paint and primer in one in satin. I did wait days in between all the paint coats to be sure they dried fully. Then I painted a coat of the Minwax water-based polycrylic in the clear satin finish. The furniture looked like it had almost a milky color top before I sanded. I sanded using a 220 grit extra fine sanding sponge. Now everywhere I sanded has a little areas where the paint has come off and I can see the white primer coming through!?!? What do I do now ….do I sand a little bit more and repaint and start again? So upset!
Your paint actually already has some clear coat protection in it since it has satin sheen. So sanding it is unnecessary between the paint and the clear coat. In fact, are you sure you need a clear coat on them at all? What color of paint did you use? I would only seal the parts that will have lots of wear and tear. So, repaint let dry a few hours and clear coat.
No fail application- I use a nice fluffy Purdy brush, fairly thick coats. For horizontal surfaces it’s so much easier to use a little plastic cup or something to pour it on using a wide zig zag motion than to keep dipping the brush. Long smooth strokes just get it on as evenly as you can then stop futzing with it. As long as your area has no drafts it will level out, and even if it doesn’t, it literally takes 3 minutes to lightly hand sand the surface to get rid of any brush marks or bubbles before the next coat. Which you really should be doing anyway. Hand sand with the grain of the wood! Wipe dust off with a damp old clean t shirt, and inspect for fuzz or rouge pet hairs. Alternate application and sanding, then at the final coat I ditch the brush and use a roller with a short to medium knap. Roll the whole surface nice and even, yet bumpy, then hold your finger on the roller to make it NOT roll. Smoothly and with light pressure push the not rolling roller all the way across the surface from edge to edge making sure to overlap to smooth out all the roller marks. Check the edges for any drips and let dry. Smooth as glass! Don’t forget to get your paintbrush damp and de-fuzz and dampen your roller before brushing on the poly. It’s water based, won’t mess with the durability, and makes application much more smooth.
About black paint not working with the poly, it’s not the poly, it’s the paint!
Black acrylic paint has sooo much pigment it takes years to cure, if ever. I painted my headboard black 3 years ago and I can still make an indentation with my fingernail. Crazy.
If you want black with acrylic paint, your best bet is to use a dark navy blue paint, let it cure, then tint the polycrylic black. It will take a few coats but it will dry nice and hard and you’ll end up with a super durable surface.
How long should I wait for my paint to cure before applying the acrylic? I have heard that it could take up to 3-4 weeks before a paint is fully cured in some conditions.
You can apply it as soon as the paint is dry. The paint doesn’t need to be completely cured first.
I tried this on a coffee table, the cabinets are light grey and the top is dark brown. The grey cabinets turned out great. It yellowed a little where I applied poly too thickly so I sanded it down and reapplied with a thin coat and it’s perfect.
The dark brown top is a nightmare. Every time it’s very streaky. I gave up on using the brush (HQ synthetic) and had better luck with a foam roller but it’s still streaky. I’m on about 6 costs now, sanded down to the paint after 3 and started over. I live in a desert, hot and arid, is it drying too fast? I’m thinking of dampening the surface before the next coat to try to keep the poly wet longer but it’s a hail Mary idea.
Hi! I just sealed a stained chest with deft clear wood finish (a lacquer) and the fumes were so bad I think part of my brain melted. Would you say the polycrylic is better in this regard?! I have used polyurethane indoors and never had this sort of smell…so I’m hoping polycrylic smells more along those lines than the lacquer. Thanks!
Lacquer is terrible when it comes to fumes!! Always make sure you do it in a very ventilated area and wear a mask! So to answer your question, yes, the polycrylic is for sure better when it comes to applying it! I will say though that once the lacquer dries, it doesn’t smell and it holds up great! Hope this helps! xo
Hi there! I’m making a custom address plaque out of reclaimed wood. I’ve stained it with a minwax oil based stain. I’m wondering if polycrylic would work. The sign would get 2-3 hours of direct sun at most during the summer and less during winter. Rain would only hit the plaque in the worst of storms if at all. If the sunlight would ruin the finish, what would it look like? No one seems to be able to help me with this. If you’ve got answers, I would greatly appreciate it!
I get it would work great if it was inside, but this product isn’t hearty enough for outside use. I would use an outside product. But, be warned, outdoor products yellow over time. Check out our post on our front door:https://allthingsthrifty.com/2012/07/how-to-paint-your-ugly-front-door.html
What would you recommend for sealing a paint job on metal furniture? I’m spray painting a bed frame with rustoleum’s metallic copper and I want it to stay nice and glam and shiny.
Spray clear coat poly over the top of it. The more gloss, the better it will hold up!
Question- if I’ve already used the spray (before reading this) and ended up with stripes, do I need to do another coat of paint THEN do the brush on polycrylic? Or can I do the polycrylic brush on over the spray to correct the stripes?
Nope, you can just brush on the polycrylic, no need to repaint first.
Hi Brooke! I just finished chalk painting a mirror. The paint is a chalk/clay mix paint in a hot pink. In between coats I set it up against my fireplace to dry and it left paint marks on it. So it seems that it will defintely need to be sealed. Would you recommend polycrylic for this project? It has a decorative edge with a lot of nooks and crannies so I thought a polycrylic would be much easier than trying to wax. I also have a metal plant stand I just chalk painted that will go in a sunroom that can get quite warm some days. Can that be sealed with polycrylic also? Im just a beginner on a learning curve. lol 🙂
I wish I had a definitive answer for you. However, I have never tried to seal chalk paint with a polycrylic before. There are a few options though that aren’t wax. Home Depot carries a brand called Americana Decor that is a cream that can be applied. Rustoleum also has THIS that can be used over chalk as well! I hope this helps! xo
Hi there! Thank you so much for your fabulous posts! I just painted a dresser and am all ready to seal. Would you recommend sealing the whole thing, drawers and all, or is only the top of the dresser really necessary? The less work the better, but I also want to do it right.
I would go with a pretty solid yes on that! Or you can always try a fels-naptha bar! I use those like crazy during baseball season if I am out of my homemade solution!
I hope to start on my kitchen cabinets soon. I really going to need help.
I just repainted an old dresser and was wondering if I should sand the third coat of paint before I apply the polycrylic?
I would rough it up slightly with 220-400 grit sand paper first. Don’t push hard. Just rough it up a little.
Hello, so I painted bedside tables and now I am wanting to seal them. How long do I wait before sealing them? Also, I do not understand why I would sand in between coats of the Polycrylic. Wouldn’t that take my paint off? Thanks.
Renee
Think of it more as “scuffing it up lightly” than sanding. It’s just so each coat can have something to adhere to. As soon as your paint is dry to the touch, you can apply the topcoat.
Hello! Thanks for the info. I just did a table that I stenciled a design on. I sealed it with this product, but unfortunately I chose semi gloss, and I think it is too shiny. I can only sand it down so far without fear of taking off the stenciling. Do you think if I do the next coat in Satin that it will be a mess? Or would you suggest I just stay with what I started with. Thanks for any thoughts.
You can definitely lightly sand and put satin directly over the top of the gloss.
I sanded my first coat of polycryclic with 400 grit and its left a lot of light places. Does that mean that I did a bad job applying the polycryclic or that I didnt sand it enough? Help!
What color were you sealing over?
Help – I am building a nature table for the kids. I can’t promise that water won’t spill on it, but it’ll primarily hold bugs, not liquid. I just stained it with an oil-based stain (and it looks beautiful!). I bought a Miniwax water-based Polycrylic and was planning to put that on when the weather improved. Someone suggested that I use a shellac before the Polycrylic though. Does that sound right? Thanks for any suggestions! Randy
I don’t think it makes a big difference personally! Shellac hasn’t been a huge game changer for me so I don’t use it!
Would you recommend applying with a foam roller?
No. I use a nice brush specifically for poly most of the time.
How many coats would you do for a kitchen tabke8
I would do at least three coats.
This product does yellow. I’ve used it over white paint and it yellowed horribly. Also, it does contain urethane. A blended mix of poly-urethane and acrylic.
Side note, project was interior kitchen cabinets which were made of red oak with typical MDF shelving. the white paint was an acrylic paint containing primer. Everything was primed prior to paint application. The poly-acrylic was applied about a month later to ensure we passed the curing time.
The exterior (also all red oak) was stripped, bleached, sanded and prepped with a wood conditioner. They were white washed stained and sealed within a 3 days time. No yellowing!! I didn’t use the poly acrylic by minwax. I used a high endurance clear top coat by a company called general finishes. The product is also a water based poly acrylic. It’s now just over a year and it has not yellowed at all. I have used general finishes on other projects and have only encountered yellowing on the grooves of a sheet of paneling and in the corners of the drawers of a dresser where I could not thin the layer down. It’s a bit more expensive but it is worth every penny.
I made a headboard from pallet wood that I sanded and stained. It’s absolutely gorgeous but I’m having trouble getting the stain to a point where it’s not leaving a residue when I rub it with a cloth. I used Minwax paste finishing was to seal it but it’s still leaving a residue. What can I do??
what about using this to seal a painted crib?
Great, was helpful for my smart woodworking project. Thanks a lot. Keep it up.